Gastronomy & Heritage•Published Sep 28, 2024

Preserving Uji: A Chronicle of Ancient Tea Cultivation

A morning immersion into traditional straw-screen shading and hand harvesting with twelfth-generation cultivators.

Lush terrace of matcha tea leaves in Kyoto foothills

Dawn over the Uji River brings heavy condensation that settles across the terraced valleys south of Kyoto. For eight centuries, this microclimate has nurtured Japan's most prized tencha and gyokuro leaves.

The Philosophy of Shading

Three weeks prior to spring harvest, farmers erect bamboo and reed lattices (honzu) over the tea shrubs. By depriving the leaves of direct sunlight, chlorophyll production surges and bitterness yields to rich amino-acid sweet umami.

“We do not hasten the leaf; we simply set the conditions under which it chooses to be delicate.”

Observing the steaming, gentle rolling, and granite stone milling imparts reverence for processes untouched by automated haste.